Sharpening Made Easy
Knife Sharpening Information and Equipment
$239.95 including shipping 
This machine will sharpen almost anything - knives,
chisels, planes irons, garden tools, scissors, etc.
This is the only belt sander we have found that can
be used vertically or horizontally without modification.
Heavy Duty construction of steel and aluminum (no
plastic). Includes 1/4 HP, 1750 rpm motor, power cord and
switch.
- 4" x 6-1/2" table
- Takes standard 1" x 42" abrasive belts
- Automatic belt tension
- Two year guarantee
Shipping to Canada and 48 US states included.
HI and AK click here to add $10 per order shipping
Allow 2 to 4 weeks for delivery.
Accessories:
S-9 Knife sharpening guide $12.95
S-10 Scissor Sharpening Guide $69.95
Accessories are shipped free with the purchase of the
sander. When ordered separately, add $10
shipping
USING BELT SANDERS
There are several good reasons for a knife sharpener to use
a belt sander even if you do not it to sharpen knives.
This description is for a Viel Tools S5 sander/grinder but
can be adapted to any belt sander:
1. Reduce the bolster of a chefs knife that has been
sharpened in a pull through sharpener and developed a swale
or low spot.
Lay the sander down so the belt is horizontal and moving
away from you. Hold the blade across the belt just as if you
were sharpening, but only grind the bolster. You can improve
the appearance by rocking the blade from about 20 to about
50 degrees, or by using the short slack belt section between
the platen and the idler wheel. Grind until the bolster is
no longer higher than the edge.
2. Reshape a chopping knife with a swale or low spot so it
racks against the cutting board. (Santoku, unbolstered chefs
knife or bolstered chefs knife after the above operation)
Lay sander horizontal as above. Hold the blade parallel to
the belt, spine up, edge down. Rock the cutting edge on a
belt until the swale is gone. This requires a platen as long
as the blade. Of course you dull the edge in the process,
but you CANNOT create negative curvature against a flat
platen. If you hold the blade about 45 deg. to either side
for the last two passes you start the resharpening process.
3. Grind a strong convex edge on a chopping tool. (Axe or
camp knife)
Lay sander horizontal as above, edge across the belt.
Sharpen the edge on the short slack section between the
platen and the idler wheel. Angle will control how far up
the side of the blade you sharpen. Position closer to the
platen for stronger edges (axes) and a little further back
for a sharper edge (knives)
4. Garden tools that do not open 90 degrees (anvil pruners
and grass shears).
Set the sander up so the belt is vertical. Work on the long
slack section on the back opposite the platen. Bring the
belt between the blades (or blade and anvil) at the
sharpening angle. Practice with the sander off to see how it
fits and if you can move it the full length of the blade.
Careful, the belt is moving UP.
This is a relatively safe operation if the blade and the
anvil form a V with a flat bottom (pruner) and relatively
dangerous if the blades form a V with a sharp bottom (grass
shears). The sharp V will pinch the belt, shred it ($5 gone)
and possibly throw the tool. If anyone asks, I do not
recommend this. Do as I say and not as I do. Be
careful and WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!
For additional belts we recommend Lee Valley Tools
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=48040&cat=1,43072
and http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43072&p=66268
Updated November 13, 2011
Copyright 2011
e-mail steve at bottorff dot com