Sharpening Made Easy
Knife Sharpening Information and Equipment
$239.95 including shipping 
This machine will sharpen almost anything - knives, chisels,
planes irons, garden tools, scissors, etc.
This is the only belt sander we have found that can be used
vertically or horizontally without modification.
Heavy Duty construction of steel and aluminum (no plastic).
Includes 1/4 HP, 1750 rpm motor, power cord and switch.
- 4" x 6-1/2" table
- Takes standard 1" x 42" abrasive belts
- Automatic belt tension
- Two year guarantee
Shipping to Canada and 48 US states included. HI and
AK click here to add $10 per order shipping
Allow 2 to 4 weeks for delivery.
Accessories:
S-9 Knife sharpening guide $12.95
S-10 Scissor Sharpening Guide $69.95
Accessories are shipped free with the purchase of the sander.
When ordered separately, $10 shipping is added.
USING BELT SANDERS
There are several good reasons for a knife sharpener to use a belt
sander even if you do not it to sharpen knives. This
description is for a Viel Tools S5 sander/grinder but can be adapted
to any belt sander:
1. Reduce the bolster of a chefs knife that has been sharpened in a
pull through sharpener and developed a swale or low spot.
Lay the sander down so the belt is horizontal and moving away from
you. Hold the blade across the belt just as if you were sharpening,
but only grind the bolster. You can improve the appearance by
rocking the blade from about 20 to about 50 degrees, or by using the
short slack belt section between the platen and the idler wheel.
Grind until the bolster is no longer higher than the edge.
2. Reshape a chopping knife with a swale or low spot so it racks
against the cutting board. (Santoku, unbolstered chefs knife or
bolstered chefs knife after the above operation)
Lay sander horizontal as above. Hold the blade parallel to the belt,
spine up, edge down. Rock the cutting edge on a belt until the swale
is gone. This requires a platen as long as the blade. Of course you
dull the edge in the process, but you CANNOT create negative
curvature against a flat platen. If you hold the blade about 45 deg.
to either side for the last two passes you start the resharpening
process.
3. Grind a strong convex edge on a chopping tool. (Axe or camp
knife)
Lay sander horizontal as above, edge across the belt. Sharpen the
edge on the short slack section between the platen and the idler
wheel. Angle will control how far up the side of the blade you
sharpen. Position closer to the platen for stronger edges (axes) and
a little further back for a sharper edge (knives)
4. Garden tools that do not open 90 degrees (anvil pruners and grass
shears).
Set the sander up so the belt is vertical. Work on the long slack
section on the back opposite the platen. Bring the belt between the
blades (or blade and anvil) at the sharpening angle. Practice with
the sander off to see how it fits and if you can move it the full
length of the blade. Careful, the belt is moving UP.
This is a relatively safe operation if the blade and the anvil form
a V with a flat bottom (pruner) and relatively dangerous if the
blades form a V with a sharp bottom (grass shears). The sharp V will
pinch the belt, shred it ($5 gone) and possibly throw the tool. If
anyone asks, I do not recommend this. Do as I say and not as I
do. Be careful and WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!
For additional belts we recommend:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=48040&cat=1,43072
or http://tinyurl.com/sharpeningbelts
If you need to save some money and are able to build your own belt
sharpener, go to this page.
Updated May 27, 2013
e-mail steve at bottorff dot com